Recently, nine travelers - eight from Philadelphia, one from Washington DC - went to Montreal for a weekend of tango. For several, it was the first time; for others, it was the second or even the third such tango trip. Nonetheless, at the end of every trip, the result was always the same: Montreal had occupied a special place in our hearts, and we knew that we would return soon.
A number of Montrealers, (both dancers and non) have expressed surprise, and some pride, that we come from so far away just to dance in their city. What is it about Montreal, that we would gladly travel eight-plus hours each way? What brings us back again and again?
First and foremost, it's the city itself. All over Montreal, there are hints of Europe: in the architecture; in the relaxed, gracious manner of the people; in the cozy sidewalk restaurants along rue Saint-Denis; in the charming flowerboxes and cobblestone streets of Old Montreal. At the same time, Montreal is also a vibrant, eclectic city with a progressive attitude. Our favorite neighborhood is the Quartier Latin; we were surrounded by a dizzying array of colors, cuisines, and cultures. We were easy to find: there would be a corner full of laughter and high spirits in an otherwise quiet creperie. I can't explain why, but that's what Montreal does to us. It brings out our energy.
As for tango, Montreal is unlike any tango city I've visited on the East Coast. I noticed that for many Montreal tangueros, the embrace was crucial; once it was established, the rest of the dance followed naturally. If I had to pick a word to describe the way Montrealers embrace in tango, it would be chaleureux - warm, friendly. I never encountered an embrace that was timid, or cold, or preoccupied.
Furthermore, the dancers of Montreal possess a certain maturity. The quality of their movement is elegant, and they are a pleasure to watch. However, most Montreal tangueros are not interested in dancing for an audience. This surprised me. I've always thought that tango dancers are going to be tempted to show off once in a while; after all, tango is heavily based on sight as well as touch. Not so in Montreal; like everywhere else in the city, people come primarily to have a good time.
Of the milongas in Montreal, Mocha Jo was the runaway favorite among our group. The wood floor is like a dream, the music is inspiring, and the atmosphere is very friendly and intimate. We always left feeling invigorated.
Montreal has two excellent tango ambassadors: Bernard Caron and Keith Elshaw. During the trip preparations, Bernard was extremely helpful. He not only told us about all of the tango events in town, but he provided a lot of useful information on places to stay. As for Keith, he went out of his way to give us a warm welcome; we were sincerely touched by his openness and hospitality. His joie de vivre was infectious; it brought out our own enthusiasm, which fed into the milonga and made everyone come alive. Keith also has a delightfully wicked sense of humor when he dances; all his partners left the floor laughing.
The music is also worth noting. The songs are always well-chosen, creating a specific mood in the milonga. Keith Elshaw, the DJ at Mocha Jo, seamlessly blends alternative music with songs of the Golden Age. At the traditional end of the spectrum, DJ Michel Auzat of L'Academie announces every orchestra before playing a tanda. In a surprising gesture, he called for requests at the end of the night. All the songs were solid choices, and it shows how much Auzat trusts his audience.
When in paradise, however, expect a little trouble, and Montreal was no different. The biggest concern is that not enough local dancers approached our group. The men generally fared better, but more than once, the best women in our group had to ask men for dances, or risk sitting all night. As women, we don't like to be forced to do this, especially in a new city.
It's not that the dancers are unfriendly. The ones I have met have all been warm and accommodating. In fact, one of my favorite memories was when a large group of tangueros, Montrealers and travelers alike, went out to a 24-hour Greek restaurant after a milonga.
Even so, it's hard to break through that initial barrier. So I implore all dancers of Montreal, especially the leaders: please do not be shy about approaching us! We would love to know you better. And it would make the experience on both sides so much richer.
Of course, we would LOVE to have you visit Philadelphia. OK, I admit to a little local pride at stake: Philadelphia's nickname is the City of Brotherly Love, and I think it holds especially true in tango here. We would like the opportunity to share this with you. At the very least, we would like to extend the same hospitality that we have been shown in Montreal.
Montreal is a true gem, as a city and as a tango community. It has been a joy for us to be here, and we would be back again in a heartbeat.